Robben Island

The Coke Machine at the Ferry Terminal to go to Robben Island

My last trip to Cape Town, we had tried to go out to Robben Island, but the transit workers were on strike and we never made it.  Friends had told me what a powerful experience it was and while I believed them I was not fully prepared for the experience.

The day started as a cloudless day with no wind and very smooth seas.   As I stood on the stern of the boat, watching Cape Town get further and further away,  on the top deck a group of South Africans were chanting, singing and dancing and the dolphins were playing out in our boat wake.  At this moment, I was overcome with the significance of what I was about to experience in this sacred place.

Dancing and Signing on the Top Deck

We arrived on the Island and were shuttled onto buses for the initial part of the tour. 

Our guide, Kent, explained that the island has been housing prisoners since the end of the 17th century.  There are people buried all over the island.  Ever time they excavate a new place they find human remains.  The only existing cemetery on the island currently is the Leper Cemetery.

The leper cemetery

From here we continued on to the dog kennels and the place where Robert Sobukwe was held in solitary confinement.  He had formed the Pan Africanist Congress and was charged with incitement when he encouraged opposition to the Dom Pas Law.  On the day he turned himself in at the Orlando Police Station in Soweto, 69 people were killed and over 180 injured in Sharpsburg while showing their opposition to the law, most were said to have been shot in the back by the police.

Dog kennels behind Robert Sobukwe's Solitary Cell

We continue on to the limestone quarry where prisoners from Cell Block B had worked. 

Limestone Quarry

We then saw the two churches on the island.  The first was the church from the leper colony.  Ever other building from that time had been torn down, but this remains as it was built with private funds and could not be torn down.  The second church was the one for the small town, where the guards lived with their families. 

People's Church

Finally we arrived at the maximum security prison where political prisoners were kept during the Era of Apartheid.   Our guide for this part of the tour was a former political prisoner.  He lived in Block A, cell 13.  He told us of the terrible things that happened to him as a political prisoner and also of the things he learned while in prison.   From his experiences, Nelson Mandela was an amazing leader even while imprisoned on Robben Island.   When the prisoners didn't want to learn Afrikaans and live by the guard's rules - he told them the best way to know your enemy is to know their language.  And they learned Afrikaans.  When the guards beat them, he told them to be peaceful and respectful.  And some of the guards grew sympathetic to the prisoners, smuggling in letters and even chocolate birthday cake. 

Our Guide for the prison tour

Outside of the maxium security prison

An empty cell  2.5m x 2.5 m



Nelson Mandela's Cell



When he was told nothing would grow in the garden, Mandela planted peppers
and other things including the grapes that still grow there today.

Overall an amazing journey.  As our tour guide said "Thank you to the world for helping South Africa end Apartheid.  It would not have happened without pressure from citizens and governments all around the world"

The Eastern Cape Whale Coast

Gretta's Beach??  Nope Gordon's Bay! But I love the idea...

For the first real weekend in South Africa, I have decided to experience the Whale Coast between Cape Town and Hermanus.  First stop Gordon's Bay, a beautiful bay tucked into the mountains.

The Beach in Gordon's Bay

From Gordon's Bay, I continued along the rocky coast.  The Atlantic to your right and the mountains directly to the left.  An amazing view the entire ride, especially with the wildflowers in bloom!

The winding road less traveled

Next stop was Betty's Baai and the penguin colony at Stony Point.  While I have seen the penguins at Bolder's Beach, the scenery at Stony Point is much more dramatic. 

Waves Breaking at Stony Point

Stony Point Jackass Penguin

Driving on toward Hermanus there were signs for whale watching in Kleinmound, so I stopped.  And saw my first Southern Right Whale. 

My first whale sighting

I finally arrived in Hermanus.  Home of the whale crier, who signals whale sightings with a kelp horn. 



Two more Southern Right Whales



Kids playing in the fountain at Hermanus



On the way home the sunset was so spectacular, I just had to stop at Gordon's Bay again. 

The whale coast was well worth the trip!

Soweto



View of the Orlando Towers and the streets of Soweto


After long flights and good night sleep.  We began our long work trip in Soweto at the Chris Hani-Baragwanath Hospital.  This facility is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere and the second largest hospital in the world.  I knew this coming in, but had no idea how large until we walked the campus and we only saw a small portion of the hospital and its many wards.   We worked there three days and never saw the entire campus. 

The towers of the Orlando Power Plant are a common view from Soweto and seem to be in view from everywhere, likewise the Orlando Stadium.


After working, the site provided us with a driver to see some of the Apartheid history sites in Soweto.    We started this trip at the Regina Mundi Catholic Church which means "Queen of the World".   This church was used by the students during the Soweto uprising as a place of organization, morning and shelter until the police stormed the church.  In this raid while no one was killed, many were wounded and the marble alter broken, the statue of Jesus damaged and many bullet holes left in the roof.  This Church still plays a big role in Soweto.  It was recently visited by First Lady Michelle Obama on her South African Visit. 




Stained Glass Window at Regina Mundi -
Look for bullet holes in the roof!



Photo Gallery at Regina Mundi

Another stained glass panel in the church

From the church, we were shown the houses of Winnie Mandela, Desmund Tutu and Nelson Mandela.  

Winnie Mandela's House

Our final stop this day was to see Hector Pieterson Memorial and Museum.  Hector was the first student killed in the Soweto uprising.  Students were protesting the teaching of Africans and English 50/50 in schools.  The museum shows events leading up to and after the uprising.  It is a very powerful museum. 

Sections of the Memorial

  

A short working vacation in the Dominican Republic

A good friend is working in the Dominican Republic on a Research Vessel doing Underwater Archeology.  My friend Jane and I decided to go for a visit.  Our intentions were to see Alan and meet his new friends and experience the work associated with Underwater Archeology. 

Planes, trains and automobiles had nothing on us when we left. We started out by car, to the airport, then a plane to Miami, a train around the Miami airport, another plane to Santo Domingo, a taxi to the bus station, a bus to Samana, picked up by Alan in a truck who took us to meet a small boat in Las Galeras to take us to our destination, the RV Beacon in Rincon Bay.

Buses

Trucks

Boats

Bubby, Jane and our stuff read to head to the RV Beacon

We arrived, unpacked and had a wonderful dinner. At dinner we found that the plan for Sunday was to continue a survey and we should be up for breakfast at 6 and ready to push off by 7, this was a working vacation after all.

The RV Beacon and our home for the visit - fondly called the "mother-ship"

The survey was a long day out on the boat on a present pattern to look for hits to further investigate. The bay here is spectacular. While we had some surge from tropical storm Katia you could see the bottom at 25-30ft most of the day. And the surge made for beautiful pictures of waves crashing into shear cliffs and three rocks.

A local fisherman and the Beacon.

Monday we did more survey work, but this time on a deserted beach with metal detectors. That was harder work than it seemed. The beach was amazing and the surf was fun to play in and get refreshed. You also couldn't beat the fresh water stream/river for a blast of cool fresh water to enjoy.

The next day the seas are calm and its time to dive, doubles!  My first time!  Two firsts this day, Bubby also let me drive the Beacon.  Look out ... here she comes!

Unfortunately, after three days, it was time for me to repeat the planes, trains and automobiles process and head home.   Jane got to spend a few extra days on the Beacon.  I learned a lot and have a great respect for those who do underwater archeology and enjoyed a great few days in paradise!